Special stitch sewing machine



Nov. 2%, 1945. c, w JOHNSON 2,389,151

SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 29, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet 1 F 1G. I 40 J24 INVENTOR CARL W. JOHNSON ATTORNEY NOV. 20, 1945. c, w JOHNSON 2,389,151

SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 29, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet 2 PIC-3.2

170 5.24 zqz 240 lNVENTOR CARL W.JOHNSON ATTORNEY Nov. 20, 1945. c. w JOHNSbN 2,389,151

SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 29, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet s FIG. 3

INVENTOR 94 252 CARL W.JOHNSON BY W 6 71 ATTORNEY Nov. 20, 1945. c. w. JOHNSON SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. '29-, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 Maw , $1 www vi mnw QNN NWN N O S s N H m a R N mw w m W WA A C B N N NOV. 20, 1945. c, w JOHNSON 2,389J51 SPECIAL' STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed NOV. 29, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet 5 FIG.5

40 FIG. I6.

lNVENTOR CARL W. JOHNSON ATTORNEY Nov. 20, 1945. c. w. JOHNSON SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 29, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 .liweni'ar Carl WfJofmsaw.

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Nov. 20, 1945. c. w. JOHNSON SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 29, 1940 7 Sheets-Sheet '7 Patented Nov. 20, 1945 SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Carl W. Johnson, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to American Machine and Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application November 29, 1940, Serial No. 367,690

31 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines and more particularly to machines for making special types of stitches, either for utilitarian or decorative purposes, and pertains chiefly to that type of machine in which a double pointed needle is used in conjunction with mechanism for projecting the needle and a thread back and forth through the work as it is fed, either automatically or manually, over a Work supporting table.

This invention consists further in improvements in sewing machine, such as shown in my co-pending applications, Serial No. 289,907 filed August 12, 1939, and Serial No. 355,738 filed September 7, 1940, the former of which has matured into Patent N0. 2,368,066, Jan. 23, 1945, and relates chiefly to novel mechanism for forming an angle stitch, that is, a stitch in which the thread extends angularly from top to bottom in the work as a result of the manipulation of the work relative to the needle as the: stitches are being formed. It is found that in many instances, as for instance, decorative purposes, it is highly desirable that a minimum amount of thread be shown on the stitched work while at the same time suflicient thread is utilized to make a strong stitch. Accordingly, it is an object of my invention to provide improved. mechanism for forming oblique or angular stitches wherein a controlled amount of thread will be visible on the finished work.

My invention also consists in the provision of cooperating work engaging members adapted to bear on opposite sides of the work, incline it relative' to the needle and release it after each movement of the needle therethrough.

The invention also consists in the provision of an improved work supporting table having a depressed portion therein which allows the work engaging members to move up and down relative to the normal plane of the Work supporting table.

My invention also contemplates the provision of means for forming oblique or angle stitches and for interrupting the production of this type of stitch and changing to conventional, substantially right angular under and over time stitches according to the desire of the operator of the machine in sewing or decorating material's. Hence it is an added object of my invention to provide improved mechanism for alternately making angle stitches and normal length stitches.

My invention also consists in the. provision of improved mechanism for varying the length of stitch according to the thickness of the work in order that proper stitches may be formed without unduly compressing the work because of an insufficient amount of thread per stitch which would cause the Work to have a puckered or drawn appearance.

My invention also consists in the provision of improved mechanism for furnishing a predetermined amount of slack thread in order to insure formation of a succession of stitches which will conform to the desires of the operator in sewing various materials so that at no time will either an under or an over supply of thread be formed into stitches which might make the results unsatisfactory.

An added object of my invention is to provide means for grasping the thread and positively moving it laterally out of the path of the needle and in a direction substantially at right angles to the direction of feed of the work, thereby making it practically impossible for the needle to split the thread as a succession of stitches are being formed.

A further object of my invention is the provision of means which will shift the work being sewn or decorated relative to the needle prior to the projection of the needle through the work being operated upon and thereby produce stitches in which the thread is angularly inclined with respect to the plan of the material being sewn.

A further object of my invention is the provision of opposed work handling members which operate in synchronism one with the other for shifting the work relative to the needle as the stitch is being formed in order to produce therein a succession of oblique stitches having either a uniform length stitch visible upon the work or a varying type of stitch, or combinations thereof, dependent upon the will of the operator running the machine.

An added object of my invention is the provision of mechanism for indicating the relative length of stitch to be formed, which mechanism is provided with a scale and pointer for apprising the operator of the length of stitch selected.

In sewing some kinds of goods or articles of clothing, it is necessary to stitch along both straight, and sharp turns or corners, and when it is necessary to turn the work to sew in a sharp curve, if a succession of angle stitches similar to those made along a straight line were to be made, the spacing of the stitches around the curved portion would 'be greater than desired and, hence, would create an undesirable effect because of the lack of uniformit in: spacing, It is, therefore, an object of my invention. to pro vide mechanism so that substantial uniformity in visible stitch length can be maintained whenever necessary at all times during the sewin operation, both in sewing along straight lines and connecting curved lines.

It is also an added object of my invention to provide means for forming stitches either of the angle typeor. conventional over and under type or combinations thereof, which will be so related that substantial uniformity in length of thread showing on the surface of the work will result.

My invention further contemplates the provision of mechanism for making different types 01' stitches and for quickly changing from one type to the other.

An added object of my invention is the provision of stitch changing mechanism which will allow the machine under the control of an operator to sew and form a plurality of angle stitches having a uniform exposed thread portion per stitch and change-over means for forming substantially right-angle under and over'stitches of such length that the exposed portion of thread in this type of stitch will be substantially equal to the exposed portion of the angle stitches in order to produce a product haVinga uniform appearance, and also to provide means to vary the amount of thread visible on the surface of the work.

An added object of my invention is to provide relative to the needle to act as a work support as well as a feeding means during the concurrent work turning and sewing operations.

With these and other objects not specifically,

mentioned in View, the invention consists in certain combinations and constructions which will be hereinafter fully described, and then set forth in the claims hereunto appended.

, In the accompanying drawings which form part of this specification, and in which lik characters of reference indicate the same or like parts:

Figure 1 is an end view of a portion of a sewing machine equipped with my improved angle stitching mechanism;

Figure 2 is a side elevation partly in section, showing my material feed control, and means for operating and also looking the angle stitch I mechanism;

Figure 3 is a view taken from line 3-3 of Figure 2;

Figure 4 is a plan view taken from line 44 of Figure 2;

- Figure 5 is a detail view of the improved thread gripping jaws; I

Figure 6 is a plan view of the same taken from line 6-6 of Figure 5;

Figures 7 to 9 illustrate diagrammatically the relative positions of the material and the working parts employed in producing an angle or zig-zag stitch;

Figures 10 and 11 illustrate diagrammatically a piece of material having angle or zig-zag stitching along its straight portion until a curve or corner is reached, whereupon the under and over type stitch is used;

Figure 12 is a partial side view of the angle stitch operating mechanism;

stitch length control and length indicatin mechanisms;

Figure 14 is a partial end view on line i i-44 of Figure 2;

5 Figure 15 shows a partial side elevation of mechanism for shifting from one type of stitch to another; and V Figure 16 is an enlarged view of a detail of the thread gripping mechanism taken on line l5-i6 of Figure 5.

Referring to the drawings and particularly to Figure 1, it will be seen that I have provided upper and lower needle bars and 22, respectively, for projecting a double pointed needle 24, having points at both ends, and an eye 26 located between the points, back and forth through material to be sewed and form therein a plurality of under and over type stitches. This mechanism conforms to and is of the same general type as that described in my above referred to co-pending applications, and the needle bar operating mechanism is actuated in the same manner. As is well understood in the art, the double pointed needle, such as 24, is grasped alternatively by bars 20 and 22 and projected through the work.

In order to advance the work over the work supporting table and to position it properly thereon with respect to the needle 24, a presser foot 28 has been provided. This foot cooperates with a feeding foot 30, and a feed plate 32 attached to a cam operated arm 34 which is provided to engage, feed and retain the work in position during the sewing operation. As shown in Figure 1, the presser foot 28 is clamped to the lower end of rod 36 guided in lugs 38 formed on member which constitutes a part of the frame casing and projects horizontally therefrom. At its upper end, rod 36 has connected thereto tension springs 42 normally tending to hold foot 28 in engagement with the work in the manner disclosed in above referred to application, Serial No.

. A block 44, clamped on rod 36, supports one end 45 of a link 46 connected to lever 48, which is loosely mounted on a stud 50 carried by an arm 52 fixed .to a bar portion 55. ,Lever 48 has a vertically extending arm which supports arm 58 connected to a crank 60 of a rotating shaft 62 in order to 50 impart an up and down motion to presser foot 28 'andthe feeding foot 30 attached to block 54.

Rod56'and its block 54 are guided and operated in the same manner as disclosed in my application, Serial No. 355,738, above mentioned.

In order to dispose the work for forming I oblique stitches therein, I have provided means for raising and lowering a portion thereof adjacent the needle just prior to its movement through the work whereby the thread is disposed angularly therein and an oblique or angle stitch is formed. Figures 1-4,.7, 8 and 9 illustrate a preferred form of my oblique stitch making mechanism in which upper and lower work engaging members 64 and 66 attached to recipro- 60 catin'g rods 68 and 10, respectively, work in conjunction with the material feeding means for forming oblique or angle stitches. As shown in Figures 1, 8;7, 8 and 9, feet 64 and 66 engage the y material at the proper time and position it at an 7.0 angle to the needle 24 carried by reciprocating needle bars 20 and 22 in such a manner that the material adjacent the needle will be inclined either upwardly or downwardly from the plane of movement of the work, or the work support 35,

so that as the needle passes through the work the thread will pass obliquely therethrough and hence the amount of thread showing on the material as a stitch will always be less than the space between the stitches. This method of stitching is also eflicient from the point of view of securing materials together in comparison with the conventional right-angle under and over types of stitches, and is much desired in various fields because it closely simulates hand stitches and also because it presents a decorative appearance.

Work supporting table is provided with a removable plate 3| positioned beneath the needle. This plate is formed with a depressed portion 33 so related to the needle bars 26, 22 and feet 64, 66 that the work can be fed properly and disposed in inclined relation to the needle during angle stitching operations (see Figure '1').

As shown in Figures 1, 2 and 3, rod "H3, at its upper end is slidably supported in a lug 12 extending from a support I4 of the machine and its lower end is supported for reciprocatory move ment in a lug l6 projecting from a holder 18 clamped in any suitable manner to a member 88 fixed to the frame 82 of the machine. A bar I84, clamped to rod I0, is free to travel in the space between plates 86 fastened to the sides of holder I8 which prevent the rod and its foot '86 from turning movement. Rod I 6 passes through an opening in a lug 88 on lever 90 fulcrumedon pivot 92 carried by a support 94 clamped to member 69 (Figure 3). By means of this connection whenever lever 90 is rocked on its pivot 92, rod 713 and lower work engaging member 66 mounted thereon will be reciprocated. A compression spring 96, around the lower end of the rod 11 bears against a collar 98 fast thereto and normally holds the lug 88 against a collar IEJD also fast on rod 1?) spaced a suitable distance from collar 93. A support I62, fixed to the base of member 78, has an extension which is provided with a stop screw W4 serving to control the down position of 'foot 36.

The opposite end of lever 99 (Figures 3 and 12) is provided with a lug I66 having an opening through which extends the lower end of 'a rod Hi3 mounting a collar IIJI secured on the end-of the rod I08 by means of nut I89. A spring I II bears against a collar II3 fixed to the rod H38 and normally holds the lug I06 against colla I 61. The upper end of rod IE8 is connected to head IIEi carried by a stud I 52 supported in a cam lever II 4 (Figures 2 and 3) mounted on a pivot H6 fast to bar I I3 fixed to frame 82 (Figure 3). Stud H2 is provided with a head I26 having an aperture through which passes a rod I22 connected to a lever I24 mounted on a pivot I26 carried by frame member of the machine. Rod I22 is yieldably connected to head I 2c by means of a compression spring I28 engaging a nut I 29 provided on the end of the rod and tending to hold a colla 'iEQ on the rod in engagement with the head IZEI.

Lever I24 is provided with a lug I313 supporting the upper end of rod 68 which mounts the upper foot 64. Bracket I32 fastened to member 43 and lugs 38 of member 49 provide guides for the rod 68 and a bar I34 (Figure 1) clamped to the rod engages in a slotted portion I36 of bracket I 32,

I24 .and 90, respectively. A spring :iida suitably connected to lever I I4 tends to hold cam follower 140 in engagement with .cam I42. An adjustable set screw I33 cooperates with a projection 133 on lever I24 and provides means for controlling the upward movement of rod 68 within :given limits.

By merely adjusting screws I64 and I38 I can control the amount of thread visible :on the work, because an increase or decrease in the stroke of members 64, 66 results in an increase or decrease in th inclination of the work upwardly or downwardly relative to the needle with an accompanying decrease or increase in amount of thread showing.

From the foregoing description it will be seen that rods 68 and I0, and feet 64 and 66, respectively, carried thereby are moved to and from the work on work support 35 in order to engage and lift and lower that portion of the work adjacent the needle to incline it so that the needle in passing back and forth through the work will :dispose the thread at an angle thereto and the amount -of thread appearing on the surface of the work will always be less than the distance between the stitches. When the machine is to be operated, the foot 64 will be spaced from the work support 35 in such a way that the work canbeintroduced therebetween and fed by a feeding means 28, 30 and 34 along support .35 :and past the needle. Presser foot 28 and feeding foot 30 :are *constructed and operate in the same general'mann'er as similar mechanism disclosed in my =co-pending application, Serial No. 355.;7'38, referred to hereinabove. The action .of the feed is :such that while foot 64 is held above the work due to the engagement of stop i38 with projections I39, foot 66 rises and clamps it against the underside of foot 64 thereby inclining that portion of the work adjacent the needle upwardly (as shown Figure 7.). Afte the movement of the needle through the work, foot 66 moves downwardly, the work is fed over the work support :a predetermined amount by members 34 :and 311 (as shown diagrammatically in Figure 8) foot 66 is lowered until collar 98 engages set screw I64, and foote is moved down to clamp the work against foot 66 thereby inclining that "portion of the work adjacent the needle downwardly just prior to thepassage of the needle and thread through the work. This step in the sewing operation is shown dia grammatically in Figure 9.

The up and down movements of feet 6'4 and 66 and dwells thereof during the operation of the machine are efiected by means of cam I42 (Figures 2 and 3) which 'is provided with high "portion I'42a, 'iow portion i421) and two dwells 1420 in order to provide two dwells during each rotation of the shaft I44. As shown in Figure 2, cam follower 140 on lever I14 is riding on one of the dwells I420 so that feet 64,66 are in neutral position or separated for the passage of material therethrough (Figure 8). In this position collar 98 is held spaced "from set screw Hi4 and projection I39 of lever I24 is spaced from set screw I38. It will be evident'that as the cam I42 rotates, feet 64, 66 will be raised alternately to their upper and lower positions in order to displace the material being sewed angularly with respect to the needle.

In some instances it may be desirable either to vary the length of the angle stitch being formed or to incapacitate the mechanism which forms. the angle stitches, or to change from angle stitch forming to normal stitch sewing, and shift from one to the other according to the requirements of the work being sewed. Accordingly; my invention includes mechanism for meeting the various contingencies which may arise. As shown in Figure 2, a shaft I46, driven in the same manner as disclosed in my co-pending application, Serial No. 289,907, filed August 12, 1939, for Sewing machine, is equipped with a cam I 48 engaging a cam roller I50 provided on a cam lever I52 loosely mounted on a stud I54, which lever has an extending arm I56 supporting one end of a rod I58 connected to a depending arm I60 of feed arm 34 for imparting up and down movement to the feed arm in the manner disclosed in said application. The end of shaft I46 is provided with an eccentric pin I62 having a roller I64 engaging an elongated slot I66 in th lower end of a lever I68 fulcrumed at I69 to an arm of lever I19 (Fi ures 13 and 14) and provided with a cam follower I18 (Figures 2, 13 and 14) movable in a slot I80 formed in the head I82 of T-stud I54 supported threaded portion of rod I88 carries knurled nuts s I92 and I94, which are turnably and slidably mounted in an aperture I95 provided in a holder I98 mounted in a suitable manner on the frame 82 of the machine and readily accessible to the operator, who by merely turning the nuts can adjust the size of stitches to suit requirements of a given sewing condition. Aperture I96 is open at the top and exposes a portion of the shanks of the nuts I92, I94 whereby prongs of a fiat spring 200 may engage the shanks and hold the nuts against turning after final adjustments have been made.

The knurled nut I92 provides means for adjusting the position of head I86 in order to change the length of stitch to suit best different types of work. Whenever the angular position of the slot I80 in slotted head I82 is shifted as the result of turning nut I92 because of the coaction between slot I80 and follower I18 there results an increased or decreased vertical movement of lever I68 depending upon whether head I82 is turned clockwise or counter-clockwise as viewed in Figures 2 and 13. Since lever I68 is connected to arm I fixed to a fork 202 (Figures 2 and 4) supporting one end of the material feed arm 34, the resultant increase or decrease in to and fro motion imparted to arm 34 will thereby vary the length of the stitches in-the work as required.

In some sewing operations it may not be desired to continue making oblique stitches, as for instance, in a case where the work is to be turned or a series of stitches of equal visible length are to be made along a sharp turn or curve in the work. In order to meet such a requirement, I have provided mechanism described hereinbelow which will incapacitate the angle stitch forming mechanism and prevent movement of members 64 and 66, while at the same time the means for effecting standard or under and over stitches, of a desired length, is automatically made ready for operation. This object is accomplished by depressing a foot treadle 205 (Figure connected to a rod 204 pivoted to an arm 206 (Figures 2, 4 and 15) attached to a rod 208 loosely mounted in blocks 2| 0 fastened in fram 2I2. Arm 2I4,

clamped to rod 208, carries a bracket 2 I6 to which a bar 2I8 is adjustably attached and carries a spring tensioned plunger 220 adapted to engage an arm 222 pivoted at 224 on frame 82 (Figure 15). Therefore, whenever plunger 220 is swung into pressing engagement with arm 222 as the result of depression of treadle 205, the latter rocks about its pivot 224 to advance surface 226 of the arm 222 into engagement with, and move arm I 14 against a stop screw 228 carried by a rod 230 extending from the frame 82. The movement of arm I14 also moves member I10, pivotally connected thereto (Figures 2 and 15) and by means of fork 202 connected thereto and to feed arm 34, the latter is moved to a position past the needle 24 in order to serve as a support for starting the feed of the work for further sewing, as well as means for feeding the work. As shown in Figures 1, 7 and 9, during the formation of angle stitches the position of the front edge of feed plate 32 is a short distance to the left of the path of the needle, and there is no diificulty in feeding the work by means of upper feeding members 28, 30 and lower feeding plate 32. However, because as illustrated in Figure 10, when sewing a line of angle stitches Z along the path A there is plenty of work available to be gripped by the feeding mechanism despite the fact that it is located to the left of the needle 24. On the other hand, in turning the work and sewing around the corner or tip of the lapel B, it is apparent from Figure 10 that the amount of work available for sewing is very small and insufiicient to extend between the needle and the front edges of the upper feeding members 28, 30 and the lower feeding plate 32. Therefore, by advancing feed arm 34 in the manner described hereinabove, the front edge of the feeding plate makes it possible for the operator to hold down thereupon the limited amount of work available during the formation of normal over and under stitches until, as the curved line of stitches is formed, more work becomes available and treadle 204 can be released to allow the return of feeding arm 34 to its normal position with the concurrent rehabilitation of the operation of feet 64, 66 in order to form angle stitches. As the feed arm 34 is advanced, arm 2! by means of a rod 232 causes arm I84 fixed to stud I54, to shift the position of head I 82 and turn slot I towards the horizontal, thereby decreasing the feeding movement of arm 34 which supports feed plate 34. The resulting over and under stitches will be relatively short, have the same outward appearance as the angle stitches, and the desired results and effect will be obtained. Longer, or still shorter, over and under stitches can be obtained while the angle stitch mechanism is incapacitated merely by adjusting nuts I92, I94, thereby changing the position of slotted head I82 which increases or decreases the stroke of lever arm I10 as described hereinabove. So also by means of adjusting screws I92, I 94, the length of the oblique stitches may be varied without however locking the mechanism which operates feet 64, 66 against movement. The normal adjustment of nuts I92, I94 on the threaded portion of rod I88 results merely in shifting stud I54 and head I82 to compress springs 256, 260 on rods 236, 246 more or less. In the usual operation of the machine, unless it is desired to form normal under and over stitches for a period of time, the adjustments of nuts I92, I94 will be such that head I82 is not turned to its limit position where compression in springs 256, 260 is suflicient to lock feet 64, 66 against movement.

The turning of stud [54 by depressing treadle 283, as set forth above, causes sufficient compression of springs 256, 268 (Figures4 and 12') to discontinue the operation of feet 64, 63 and the formation of angle stitches since it causes arm 234, by means of a link 23!; (Figures 2, 4 and 12) connected to plunger 238-, to engage a notch 248 of a block 242 clamped. to red I22 and thereby lock the rod and foot 84 against movement, and simultaneously an arm 244 also clamped to stud I54 by means of a link 243 connected to a lever 248 pivoted on a stud 258 supported in holder 95, causes the lever 248 to swing so that a notch 252 can. engage the arm 30 and lock the mechanism controlling the movement of rod 18. and its foot 38 against further reciprocation.

If it is desired to discontinue the over and under stitching operation and return to angle stitch-- ing, the foot treadle is released and a spring 254,. together with springs 256, 25 8 and 268', tend to return the mechanism to its starting position. Spring 254 also holds the shoulder 232 of nut 192 in abutment with holder I98. Arm I14 (Figure 2) is equipped with a stop screw 234 serving normally to engage a stationary rod 266 projecting from the frame 82, Arm I14 is held in position by the spring 256.

A pointer or index device is provided and acts in conjunction with the thread length control means whereby the thread length for each type of stitch is set for the particular thickness of the work to be served, thereby removing all guessing onthe part of the operator and insures that a uniform series of stitches will be made. To accomplish this object the arm 234 (Figures 2, 4,

13 and 14-) is equipped with a link 258 connected to an am 218 clamped to a stud 212 loosely mounted in a bracket. 214 attached to the. casing 216 of the machine. A finger 21.8 attached to stud 212 registers with the index plate 288 whereby the comparative length of the stitch may be judged. By turning nut M2, the position of head I82 will be changed resulting in more or less movement of the feed arm 34- at the same time the finger 218 will be moved indicating to the operator the difference in setting.

Referring to Figures 1, and 6, an improved thread gripping device for displacing the thread out of the path of the needle and formin slack is shown working in conjunction with the upper needle bar 28. The gripper mechanism. consists of fingers or jaws 282 and 284, the. latter, which is loosely mounted on a stud 288 (Figures 5 and 16), is carried by finger 282 and operates in a slotted portion therein. Finger 282 is provided with a hub 298 adapted to receive one end of a fulcrum stud 292. depending from lug 38 of member 48. The upper end of stud 288 terminates in a ball 284 engaging in a socket provided in the head 2% of a link 288 connected to an arm 388 attached to stud 382 which is loosely mounted in a bearing of the bracket 3'34 secured to member 48. The other end of stud 382 supports an arm 33% (Figure 1) having at its upper end a cam follower 308 held by a spring 389. in engagement with. a cam 3H] which imparts swinging motion to the gripper jaws 282, and 284 about fulcrum 292. The cam 318 is attached to a shaft 312 supported by a bracket 314 secured to member 48, which shaft is equipped with a spiral gear 3I6 (Figures 1 and 3) in mesh with a spiral gear 318 on the shaft 62 suitably driven by means (not shown) from the main drive of the. machine.

An arm 320 projecting from finger 284 (Figure 6) is attached to one end of a link. 322 connected to an arm 324- attached to. stud 3'26 supported. by bracket 304. A lever 328, clamped to stud 326 at its upper end, is provided with a cam roller 330 held. by a spring 328 in engagement with. a double cam 332. and 334 controlling the opening and closing of the gripper fingers. In order to adjust the cams 332 and 334 properly in order Ito act upon the thread at the correct moment, cam 332 is attached to shaft 3I2 by means of a. set screw andis provided with a bored portion adapted to receive the cam 334 having an opening whereby it can. he slipped. over the hub of cam 332 and clamped in position by means of screws 338 (Figure 5) threading into said hub.

As disclosed in my co-pending application, Serial No, 289,907, heretofore mentioned, the needle 24 (Figure 1). is grasped by the upper needle bar 28, which ascends to its full stroke and immediately descends, slightly forming a loop in the thread and dwells. During the ascent of the needle, the gripper fingers 232, 284 in open. position are moved by means of cam 3! to a point adjacent the needle in order to be in position to grasp the rear portion of the loop of thread formed as the needle moves downwardly so that when follower 338 engages a low portion of cam 348-, the grippers close,v hold the rear portion of the loop of thread, and move it to the left out of the path of the needle. Substantially simultaneously with the thread displacing movement of the gripper fingers 282, 284, looper arm 338 engages the front portion of the loop of thread as it moves towards the left (Figure 1) during which time fingers 282, 284 remain closed and clamp the thread, holding the same from tightening the stitches in; the work as the arm 338 starts to pull the thread through the work. When the arm 338 retreats or moves to the right (Figure 1), a-high portion 342 of earn 332 engages follower 338 which causes ripper finger 284 to move away from clamping relationship with gripper finger 282 and hence the thread is released as the needle .bar 28- descends to transfer the needle to the lower needle bar 22. With the descent of needle bar 28, cam 318, which is tracked by follower 388 of lever 306-, causes the now open gripper fingers 282, 2-84 to be swung on pivot 292 out of the path of the needle bar and back to inoperative position.

The operation ofv the stitching 0f the work will now be described. The material rests on work table (Figure 1) of the machine and passes between members 64' and 66- to be engaged by the feeding members 30 and 32. As seen in Figure 9, the material is shown held by members 38 and 32 with the feet 64 and 66 in their down-position holding the material at an angle to the needle 24- so that the thread will pass through the work at an angle and only a. comparatively short stitch appears above and below the work. With the needle transferred to the lower needle bar (Fi ure 8) the feeding members 38 and 32 advance the'work one'stitch length and by the same means, as described in my previous applications, the feed members are released from the work and returned to their former positions. At the time the work is advanced, the feet '64 and 36 are in an open position permitting movement of the material .therebetween. As seen in Figure 7, the foot members 64 and, 65 again clamp the material due to the ascent of foot 66 to the lip-position, holding the material at an angle to the needle awaitin the transfer of. said needle to the upper needle bar.

It will be evident from the description hereinahove thatI have provided mechanism for selectively changing from one type stitch to another and for selectively combining different types of stitches at the will of the operator according to the requirements of the work being sewn. For

example, in Figures 10 and 11, there is shown asetting the mechanism for standard or under and over stitching O in which the thread length of each stitch showing on the work approximates in length the visible portion of each angle stitch. The change-over from oblique stitches to conventional over and under stitches is desirable because the spacing of the oblique stitch thread showing on the work on the curved portion would be greater than that on the straight line. adapting the mechanism to make relatively close stitches, a substantially uniform exterior stitched appearance is obtained. This latter type of stitch continues until the curved portion of the lapel has been passed, at which time the operator of themachine releases the treadle and reinstitutes the operation of the angle stitching mechanism.

The invention above described may be varied in construction within the scope of the claims, for the particular device, selected to illustrate the invention, is but one of many possible concrete embodiments of the same. It is not, therefore, to be restricted to the precise details of the structure shown and described. I

What is claimed is:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support, of a threaded needle and opposed needle bars for projecting said needle back and forth through said work, a work feeding foot located at one side of said needle, means for moving said foot to feed work over said support, means positioned at another side of said needle for lifting and lowering a portion of the work adjacent said needle, mechanism for operating said last named means to alternately dispose that portion of the work next to be sewed obliquely up and down relative to said support, and means for mov ing said needle in a plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said support back and forth through said inclined material to pass said thread obliquely through said work.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with vertically moving means for projecting a threaded needle back and. forth through work to be sewed, of a stationary workrsupporting table means for feeding said work along said table to said needle,

vertically movable work engaging members positioned on opposite sides of said work, and means for moving said members into engagement with said work in timed relation to the operation of said vertically moving means for projecting said needle back and forth through said work, said members being constructed and arranged to shift only that portion of the work adjacent said needle and dispose that portion of said work alternately inclined upwardly and downwardly relative to said table prior to the movement of said needle through said upwardly and downwardly inc1ined portions of said work.

3. In a sewing machine of the under and over stitch type, a double pointed needle, a pair of alternately operating needle bars positioned to engage said needle and project it back and forth through work to be sewed, a stationary work supporting table, means for feeding said work over Hence by 2.

said ta-ble past said needle, work engaging members positioned to engage opposite sides of said work passing over said table, reciprocating supports mounting said members, means for reciprocating said supports in timed relation to the operation of said bars to incline the work adjacent the needle and position it angularly upward or downward relative to said table prior to each projection of said needle through said work.

4. In a sewing machine of the class described, the combination with a stationary work table having a depressed portion, of a pair of alternately operating needle bars positioned on opposite sides of said table, a needle, means for alternately connecting said needle with each bar and projecting a thread carried by said needle through the material to be sewed, and means operable in said depressed portion of said table to engage said work as it approaches said needle for inclining said work relative to said table and proximate said needle obliquely with respect to said needle.

5. In a sewing machine of the class described, a work support, a needle, devices for feeding work over said support and past said needle, mechanism associated with said support and devices for forming a plurality of types of over and under stitches including normal over and under, and oblique over and under stitches, selective means forming a part of said mechanism for changing from normal over and under to oblique over and under stitches, including means for disposing the work closely adjacent the needle alternately up and down to position said work angularly with respect to said needle for the formation of each oblique over and under stitch made by said needle, and means for indicating the relative length of stitch being made.

6. In a sewing machine of the class described, a work support, a needle, devices for feeding work over said support and past said needle, mechanism associated with said support and devices for forming a plurality of types of over and 7 under stitches including normal over and under,

and oblique over and under stitches, selective means forming a part of said mechanism for changing from normal over and under to oblique over and under stitches, including means for disposing the work closely adjacent the needle alternately up and down to position said work angularly with respect to said needle for the formation of each oblique over and under stitch made by said needle, means for indicating the relative length of stitch selected, said means including a scale designating stitch length, an indicator, and means for moving said indicator to designate on the scale the stitch length.

'7. In a sewing machine of the class described, a work support, a needle, devices for feeding work over said support and past said needle, mechanism associated with said support and devices for forming a plurality of types of over and under stitches including normal over and under, and oblique over and under stitches, selective means forming a part of said mechanism for changing from normal over and under to oblique over and under stitches, including means for disposing the work closely adjacent the needle alternately up and down to position said work angularly with respect to said needle for the formation of each oblique over and under stitch made by said needle, means for indicating the relative length of stitch selected, said work feeding devices including a traveling toothed work feeding member, means for setting the limits of travel of said member, an arm ooacting with said last-named means, a scale, an indicator cooperating with said scale, and connections between said indicator andarm for registering the stitch length.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stationary work support, a needle, mechanism for moving said needle back and forth through work in a plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said support, and mechanism .for

feeding work over said support to said needle, of means for adjusting the length of stitch to be formed, and means movable in a plane substantial-ly parallel with the path of travel of said needle for disposing a portion of the work adjacent said stationary support at an angle to said needle prior to the formation of a stitch.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stationary work support, a needle, and mechanism for feeding work over said support to the needle, of mechanism for moving said needle and a thread carried thereby in a plane substantially at right angles to the work back and forth through said work, means operating in a substantially vertical plane for inclining a portion of said work on said stationary support adjacent said needle angularly up and down with respect to said support and needle, and means for synchronizing the operation of said mechanism and last-named means to move said needle through said angularly inclined portion of said work in forming each stitch.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support, a needle, and mechanism for feeding work over said support to the needle, of mechanism for moving said needle and a thread carried thereby back and forth through said work, means operating in a substantially vertical plane for inclining a portion of said work adjacent said needle angularly with respect to said needle, means for synchronizing the operation of said mechanism and last-named means to move said needle through said angularly inclined portion of work in forming each stitch, and selective mechanism for inc-apacitating said work inclining means.

11. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support, a needle, and mechanism for feeding work to be sewed over said support to said needle, of mechanism for moving said needle and a thread back and forth through said work for forming substantiall right angle over and under stitches in said work, mechanism for forming obliquely inclined stitches in said work, and means for selectively operating said oblique stitch forming mechanism or forming substantially right angle over and under stitches.

12. In a sewing machine of the class described, in combination, a needle, means for moving it back and forth through work to form stitches therein, a work support over which said work is moved past said needle, said work support hav ing a depressed portion adjacent the stitching zone of said needle, opposed work clamping and shifting feet located adjacent said needle and operating in said depressed portion, and means for moving said feet to engage opposite sides of said work and alternately dispose it angularly upward and downward with respect to said needle each time a stitch is formed.

13. In a sewing machine, in combination, a needle, mechanism for moving said needle and a thread back and forth through work to form stitches therein, a stationary work support, means for feeding said work over said support and past said needle, means located adjacent said needle for engaging opposite sides of said work adjacent said needle, said last-named means comprising opposed feet, and means for reciprocating said feet alternately upward and downward in timed relation to the operation of said needle to engageand alternately raise and lower a portion of the work relative to said support adjacent said needle, and means operative while said portion of said work is disposed angularly with relation to said support for operating said mechanism to project said needle through said inclined portion of said work and thereby dispose the thread angularly in said work.

14. In a sewing machine, in combination, a needle, means for moving said needle back and forth through Work to form over and under stitches therein, a work support, means for feeding said work over said support past said needle, angle stitch making mechanism associated with said support, including means for moving a portion of said work alternately upward or downward to dispose it for angular movement of said needle therethrough, and selective means for operating or incapacitating said angle stitch making mechanism according to the requirements of the work being sewed.

15. In a sewing machine of the class described, a

in combination, a needle, means for moving it back and forth through work to form stitches therein, a work support over which said work is moved past said needle, said work support having a depressed portion adjacent the stitching 'zone of said needle, means located adjacent said needle and operating in said depressed portion to engage opposi-te sides of said Work and dispose it angularly with respect to said needle each time a stitch is formed, said means comprising opposed work engaging members positioned below and above said work, means for reciprocating said members to alternately raise and lower said work and dispose it in said angular position relative to said needle, and selective means for incapacitating said members.

16. In a sewing machine, a needle, a stationary work support, means for moving said needle back and forth substantially 'at right angles to said support through work to form stitches therein, means for feeding said work over said support and past said needle, means located adjacent said needle constructed and arranged to engage opposite sides of said work, and mechanism for operating said last-named means for successively lifting and lowering limited portions of said work closelyadjacent said needle above and below the plane ofsaid support, including means forholding said last-named means stationary to dispose each inclinedporti'on of said work angularly'relative to said-needle prior to its movement through each inclined portion of said work.

17. In a sewing machine of the type described, in combination, a needle, means for moving said needle back and forth through work to form stitches therein, a work support for said work, means for moving said work over said support and past said needle, mechanism positionedadjacent said needle for engaging said work and inclining that part proximate said needle alternately upward and downward, said mechanism including work displacing members, means for operating said members in timed relation with said needle movement for displacing said work relative to said needle, means for inc-apacitating said mechanism, and means operable when said mechanism is incapacitated for forming substantially right-angle over and under stitches.

18. In a sewing machine of the class described, in combination, a needle, means for moving it back and forth through work to form stitches therein, a work support over which said Work is moved past said needle, means located adjacent said needle to engage opposite sides of said work and dispose it angularly with respect to said needle each time a stitch is formed, said means comprising opposed work engaging members positioned below and above saidwork, mechanism for reciprocating said members to raise and lower said work and dispose it in said angular position relative to said needle, means for incapacitating said members to discontinue their raising and lowering of said work relative to said needle, said incapacitating means including locking means,

and a device for moving said locking means into coaction with said mechanism.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support, a needle, mechanism for feeding work over said support, and means for projecting said needle and a thread back and forth through said work to form stitches therein, of mechanism for forming substantiall right-angle stitches in said work, said last-named mechanism including angle stitch mechanism for formin angularly inclined stitches in said work, selective means for operating angle stitch mechanism as desired, including means for incapacitating said angle stitch mechanism and continuing the operation of said first-named mechanism, said incapacitating mechanism including locking members, a lever, a cam, a movable arm positioned for engagement by said cam, a cam actuator, and normally controlled means for causing said actuator to displace said cam to effect the formation of right angle over and under stitches, and operate said locking members,

20. In a sewing machine having a double pointed needle with an eye between said points, and means for projecting said needle back and forth through work to be sewed, a thread pulling device positioned on one side of said needle, thread gripping jaws mounted on said device, means positioning said jaws to engage a portion of. the thread adjacent said eye, means for operating said jaws to grip said thread, and means for moving said jaws away from said needle to provide slack in said thread and displace said thread out. of the path of said needle.

21. In a sewing machine having a double pointed needle with an eye located between said points, and means for projecting said needle and a thread back and forth through work to be sewed, an oscillatory thread pulling member positioned to engage the thread on one side of said needle, means for moving said member to pull a portion of the thread and form slack, a gripping device locatedon the opposite side of said needle, grippers carried by said device, means for operating said grippers to grip another part of the thread adjacent said needle eye, and means for moving said grippers away from said needle to provide additional slack.

22. The novel mechanical method of forming over and under stitches which comprises, feeding work over a substantiall horizontal work supporting surface past a needle, inclining a portion only of the work alternately up and down from the horizontal to provide an inclined portion for the formation of each stitch, moving said needle vertically through each inclined portion as positioned to form a plurality of oblique over and under stitches in said work with the thread length on the surface of said work less than the distance between stitches, and then maintaining the Work parallel with the work supporting surface and forming a plurality of substantially right angled over and under stitches in said work, and maintaining the visible stitch length on the work surface substantially equal to that of said oblique stitches regardless of type of stitch formed.

23. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support, and means for projecting a needle and a thread back and forth through work to be sewed, means for feeding work along said support to said needle, means for shifting said Work closely adjacent said needle angularly up and down with respect to said needle and support prior to the movement of the needle through the work, and mechanism for changing the amount of travel of said shifting means to vary the angularity of said work relative to said needle and thereby control the amount of thread visible on the surface of said work in each stitch formed.

24. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support, a needle, and means for feeding work over said support to said needle, of means for adjusting the length of the stitch to be formed, mechanism for disposing a portion of the work adjacent said needle at an angle to said needle alternately up and down prior to the formation of each stitch, and mechanism for varying the angular disposition of said work relative to said needle to control the amount of thread of each stitch visible upon said work,

25. In a sewing machine of the class described, in combination, a needle, means for moving the needle back and forth through work to form angular stitches or over and under stitches selectively therein, a work support over which said work is moved past said needle, means located adjacent said needle constructed and arranged to engage opposite sides of said work and dispose it angularly with respect to said needle each time an angular stitch is formed, said means comprising, opposed Work engaging members positioned below and above said work, mechanism for reciprocating said members to alternately raise and lower said work and dispose it in said angular position relative to said needle, and selective means for incapacitating said members to discontinue the formation of angularly disposed stitches including means for locking said members against movement.

26. In a sewing machine, in combination, a needle, mechanism for moving said needle back and forth through work to form stitches therein, a work support, means for feeding said work over said support and past said needle, means located adjacent said needle for engaging opposite sides of said work adjacent said needle, said lastnamed means comprising opposed feet, a reciprocating rod mounting each of said feet, a lever connected to each of said rods, a second set of opposed rods also connected to said levers, and

7 means for alternately reciprocating said lastnamed rods in timed relation to the movement of said needle moving mechanism to rock said levers and depress said feet upwardly and downwardly relative to said support to dispose a portion only of said work angularly relative to said needle prior to the formation of each stitch,

27. In a sewing machine, in combination, a needle, a needle mechanism for moving said needle back and forth through work to form stitches therein, a work support, means for feeding said work over said support and past said needle, means located adjacent said needle for engaging opposite sides of said Work adjacent said needle, said last-named means comprising opposed feet, a reciprocating rod mounting each of said feet, a lever connected to each of said rods, a second set of opposed rods also connected to said levers, means for alternately reciprocating said last-named rods in timed relation to the movement of said needle moving mechanism to rock said levers and depress said feet upwardly and downwardly relative to said support to dispose a portion only of said work adjacent said needle angularly relative to said needle prior to the formation of each stitch, means for locking said feet against movement, a device for advancing said work to a point closely adjacent said needle while said feet are locked against movement, and means for forming a different type of stitch while said feet are incapacitated.

28. A method of mechanically forming a plurality of types of over and under stitches which comprises feeding work to be sewed over a support along straight and curved paths, forming a suc cession of oblique stitches wherein the thread is angularly disposed in the work as the work is fed over the support in a straight path, including the steps of alternately raising and lowering limited successive transverse portions of the work approaching the needle to incline such portions angularly relative to the needle prior to its movment through the work, holding each portion inclined for the stitching operation, and effecting the movement of the needle through each inclined portion of the work to dispose thenthread angularly therein; interrupting the formation of oblique stitches at the meeting point of said curved and straight paths, and then forming a plurality of normal under and over stitches in said work as it is moved along said curved path.

29. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stationary work support and .a pair of opposed vertically movable needle bars for projecting a double pointed needle back and forth through work to be sewed, means for feeding work along said support to said needle, means for shifting a portion only of said work relative to and out of the plane of said support and closely adjacent said needle to position said work angularly with respect to said needle while maintaining other portions of said work in the plane of said support prior to the movement of the needle through the work, and means for moving said bars and needle in a plane substantiall at right angles to said support to project said needle through said angularly positioned portions of said work.

30. In a sewing machine of the class described, a stationary horizontal work support, a needle,

'means for moving said needle verticall relative to said work support to form stitches in work supported thereon, means for feeding said work over said work support and past said needle, and selectively operable mechanism for varying the type of stitch formed, said mechanism including means operative in a plane substantially at right angles to said work support for disposing the work at an angle to said work support and said needle prior to the movement of the needle through the work during the formation of one selected type of stitch.

31. In a sewing machine, the combination of a work support, mechanism for feeding work over said work support, means for adjusting th length of stitch to be formed, a needle, and means for moving said needle back and forth through and at right angles to the work support to form rightangle stitches in work fed over said Work support, and selectively operable mechanism for effecting relative vertical movement between the work and work support to cause said needle to pass angularly through the work in the formation of angle stitches therein,

CARL W. JOHNSON. 

